East Devon Trail: a 2-Day Bikepacking Adventure

The Route: Our Custom Deviation

Our chosen route was a deliberate twist on Katherine Moore’s original East Devon Trail. We sliced out the sections leading to and from Exeter, opting instead for a thrilling drop down to Ladram Bay. You can trace our actual journey on the map below, while Katherine's foundational route remains a classic on Komoot here.

Just over 100km of pure East Devon hills lay before us. Our start and finish point? The familiar Lyme Regis car park. Day one would push us through 60km, with a more relaxed 40km on day two. I’d carefully scouted a cracking campsite for our overnight stop – more on that later. We decided to tackle the trail in a clockwise direction.

A word of warning to anyone dreaming of "attacking" this trail: it's not as easy as it sounds. Read on!

Day 1: From Lyme Regis to Venn Ottery's Embrace

Bags strapped, tires pumped, car securely stowed in the public car park – the wheels of adventure were turning! We rolled out at a leisurely 9:30 AM, only to be immediately humbled. The very first climb out of Lyme Regis served as a potent preview of the day's vertical challenges. Tarmac quickly gave way to our beloved off-road, and before long, the first panoramic viewpoint stretched out before us.

From that point, it was a relentless rhythm of ascents followed by exhilarating descents to sea level. The views were simply stunning, and the coffee and food stops in Seaton and Beer were even better. We must have uttered it a dozen times: "How lucky are we that it hasn't rained much lately!" Yet, even in drier spells, the deeply shadowed forestry sections clung to their moisture. Some descents proved genuinely sketchy, forcing us off our bikes and onto our feet. With less weight on the handlebars and more familiarity with the terrain, we might have relished the technical challenge, but fully loaded, caution became our best companion.

Coastal Gems: Sidmouth and Ladram Bay

Among the charming seaside towns we pedaled through, Sidmouth was our chosen haven for a substantial food break. It delivered in spades! On a bustling Saturday bank holiday weekend, its plethora of cafes, bars, and restaurants pulsed with life. A perfectly constructed bacon and hash brown bap was precisely the fuel needed before launching into the day's biggest climb.

Ladram Bay, however, stole the show for sheer visual impact. It felt almost exotic, beckoning you to linger. But with a sky promising clouds and the unknown trail ahead, we opted for a quick appreciation before pressing on.

Bayhayes Farm Campsite: A Bikepacker's Dream

The ensuing sections were a delight – incredible forest riding, technical in places with gnarled roots and winding streams. Then came the glorious descents across open moors, wild ponies calmly grazing on fresh grass. A truly memorable experience, perfectly timed before reaching our overnight haven: Bowhayes Farm Campsite in Venn Ottery. My advice? Look no further and book early. This place is, unequivocally, PERFECT for bikepackers.

With the promise of a local pub just a mile from the campsite, our dinner choice was a no-brainer. We feasted, drank, and swapped tales with fellow adventurers at The Gold Lion pub. The food? A solid 5/5. Highly, highly recommended.

Day 2: The Return Journey

Our second day dawned with the comforting ritual of coffee and beans, brewed by the tent on my trusty micro-stove, complemented by fresh bread from the campsite owners. Around 9 AM, we packed our tents and immediately faced the day's first monstrous hill. A significant portion of it became a walk – it’s simply too steep to ride unless you're a seasoned pro.

Frustratingly, many of the descents on day two proved unrideable. A challenging mix of loose rocks and extreme gradients spelled a firm "no" for our 40mm tires and heavily laden gravel bikes. Still, the views remained spectacular in places, shifting inland to embrace the quintessential countryside feel.

A quick lunch stop in Honiton proved a wise decision, as the subsequent sections mirrored, or even amplified, the challenge. The most vexing (yet undeniably beautiful!) stretch hit us just before Axminster. This was a very narrow forest path running alongside a stream, riddled with countless tiny foot-wide crossings that offered no space for a bike. Roots were everywhere, making riding utterly impossible. If there's been significant rain, I'd strongly suggest rerouting around this particular section. We persevered, though!

Axminster to Lyme Regis: The Final Push

The last section finally rewarded us with more sunshine and, gratefully, a tailwind. We desperately needed it, and it provided a welcome boost for the final miles. Even on tarmac, the sheer gradient of the climbs forced us to push our bikes for extended periods.

We rolled into the parking lot around 2:30 PM, both immensely satisfied and, by that point, utterly spent.

East Devon Trail: Key Takeaways

Another fantastic chapter etched into our adventure log. Day one was truly brilliant – challenging, yet incredibly rewarding. Day two, for us, felt a little less satisfying, but it's a feeling that could certainly be avoided. Here are a few essential points to keep in mind, which I hope you'll find valuable for your own East Devon escapade:

• Tire Choice is Crucial: 40mm tires on a gravel bike felt stretched to their limit on this trail. In my opinion, a proper mountain bike is a far superior choice.
• Pack Light, Ride Right: The less gear you carry, the more sheer joy you'll extract from every pedal stroke.
• Brake Power is Paramount: Ensure your brake pads are fresh and high-quality. We came perilously close to losing braking power on some descents – overheating is a very real danger!
• Strategic Stops: Plan your food and water stops in advance. This avoids carrying unnecessary "dead weight."
• Mind the Muck: While beautiful, avoid the trail in sustained wet conditions. Or, if you do go, be prepared for your hike-a-bike time to effectively double.

Always remember: the true adventure often begins when the trail deviates from the original plan. Embrace the challenge, and take it easy!